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What DIY Jewelry Means at JewelryLK.com
You will see a lot of "DIY" jewelry here.
If you have a little beading or wire-wrap experience, you have made jewelry.
But this is different, it involves someone pouring liquid metal.
These pendants, earrings and rings are cast just for you, after you order, in the metal you choose. They come to you ready for you to complete, ( sell them, or give your friends something really personal ). Explore jewelry making the way modern jewelry designers and jewelers do it. The steps are simple:
1. choose the quantity you want (eg. one pair of earrings, 6 pairs of earrings) and the metal you like (eg. gold, silver, brass)
2. wait two to three weeks for the casting house to pour your jewelry and ship it to you
3. when it arrives, check it and if there is any problem, email me immediately (within a week of arrival) to JewelryLK.email@example.com
and immediately call the 800 number of the casting house in the packaging.
Normally, everything will be OK and you can follow the DIY Jewelry process below. Thank you again for your order, and please enjoy my jewelry designs.
Step by Step Photos of the DIY Process after Your Casting Arrives at Your Place
1. This is the way the DIY Jewelry looks when it arrives. This is the 'sampler' item in natural brass.
2. This is my workbench at home with the tools I use to cut metal apart. For this piece, I'll use the jewelers saw (with a #2/0 or #4/0 blade) instead of the wire cutters or Joyce Chen scissors. I'll also use my magnifying lamp and 'fancy bench pin' (really it's called that).
3. These are the close-ups of the edges two of the three pieces that were cut-up from the one casting.
4. Here are the tools I use to smooth out the little bumps on the sides of the pieces where the joining bar (aka sprue) was. I start with the flat needle file with ploy handle, pushing away from me. Then I use the flat diamond edge file, which can be used back and forth. Then I use the emery board and nail buffs, rough to smooth to smoothest.
5. The resulting smoothed pieces:
6. The next step is to set the gems. Here are all the tools I sometimes use:
and just the ones I actually used this time:
Please notice that there are no files included. That's because all my designs that include gem setting are pre-notched, no filing required. You can do a little filing if your gems do not fit quite right; but if they are the specified size or a little smaller, it should not be necessary.
Back to the gem setting. Use a small box, this keeps gems from wandering, place the gems in the settings with the cosmetics tweezers. Press down with the pen top for a rough check of fit.
In this case, a very very light tap with the nylon hammer was next. Turn the setting over and tap.
7. Now the gems are in the settings. Check that they are parallel with the base with the lighted magnifier. If not, use the cosmetics tweezers to move the gems, and repeat the process up to here.
8. Squeeze time. First we will use the parallel pliers to move the setting prongs tight against the gems. Very very gentle!!! Alternate axis as shown:
9. Angle squeeze time. Use the more typical craft pliers (mine are the glitter line from Joan Fabrics) to make double sure the gems are secure. Again, very very gentle!
10. Final inspection. Feel the gems to be sure they are not wobbling. Feel the prongs to be sure there are no rough points. Check to be sure everything is on center. In this case, I very very lightly tapped one setting that seemed a micro-millimeter off with the brass hammer. I also used the nail buff to smooth the edge of a different prong.
11. Take a photo with something in the picture for scale. I always use a USA dime.
12. Optional: some of these designs lend themselves to filling and firing vitreous enamel or filling resin inside the champleve designs. The middle raindrop design above may be resin filled.
(Only try enameling: 18K yellow gold, natural silver, polished silver)
(If enameling silver, depletion guild at 1200F and pickle twice before filling with enamel.)